Conscious

Conscious Series: IVY OAK

"We promote longevity and style instead of trends and seasonality."

26 JUNE 2022
We spoke to Caroline Gentz, Creative Director and CEO of IVY OAK. The Berlin-based brand not only makes modern authentic pieces but is also here to make a positive impact. Here’s what Caroline had to say about the stories behind their impact: 
Sustainability: what does it mean to you? 
For me, it’s a long-term vision that involves everybody along the way: employees, suppliers, customers, and investors, and it can only be achieved with all these stakeholders working together. We are taking a holistic approach, making thoughtful choices, and giving our customers a complete insight into our products, practices, and prices.  
We create timeless pieces using high-quality fabrics and workmanship, so that our customers can wear them often and for many years to come.We promote longevity and style over trends and seasonality and still send a modern, authentic and relevant message.
Choose well, love what you own and treat it with respect, that’s already a start.
Tell us more about the brand
Our aim is to think about and work with fashion differently. IVY OAK is for the woman who values quality, sustainability, and style. Therefore, we strive to produce clothing that has got the durability of a high-quality product at a reasonable price point but is also inspiring and comfortable to wear. Style is an individual journey of discovery, which is what makes it so exciting to me. 
Our customers create our brand message, not the other way around. We are following the lifecycle of our customers and try to be as authentic as we can with them and are already thinking about our customers in the generations to come
Where did the journey of the brand start? 
I founded IVY OAK in 2016 in response to what I knew was an existing product demand, but with the purpose to meet this demand in a new way and disrupt the old habits of the industry.
I wanted the brand to be fashionable yet timeless, with a huge attention to detail. I wanted our clothes to dress women for the most important moments in their lives, but at a reasonable price point. 
Wanting to be innovative meant redesigning existing structures and practices. We had to think — and act — outside the box. Having gone through the essential process of a restructure, the whole IVY OAK team is fully committed to getting involved, and this has really shaped the development of the company. 
 What is your background/career and when did you start working on creating a positive impact? 
Before founding IVY OAK, I was able to gain insights in both the luxury and the fast fashion industry. I set myself the goal to combine the best of both worlds, closing the gap between high street and luxury fashion, and putting sustainability at the forefront. I love the process of creating fashion, from the sketch until the production of a garment. Fashion enables people to express themselves and this truly fascinates me. 
What achievement are you proudest of? 
I look back on the last years with particular pride. Our team has fought throughout these challenging years of the pandemic with solidarity for each other. I am deeply thankful for the support they showed, especially for our partners and customers. We are also very proud that we were able to improve our results especially in the areas of transparency and the achievement of our CSR Sustainability goals. We were able to increase the use of eco-friendlier materials on 81% of the styles in the last season. That’s incredible and really not as easy as it may sound for most consumers. Our customers can follow our journey closely in our sustainability reports.
What are you working on at the moment? 
We just went through an exciting brand transition. IVY OAK is presenting a new brand CI. We are proud to be bolder now and to promote the sustainability and transparency of our garments even more. 
For selected styles, customers will soon be able to see how much CO2 has been emitted or water used to produce a garment. We also want to use this data internally to make data-based design and sourcing decisions, to allow us to lower our impact even further. Our team is also working on introducing circular design strategies to move further away from the linear and disposable model.
At IVY OAK why do you place an emphasis on increasing the longevity of clothing through quality? 
We believe investing in quality is worth it in the long run to protect our environment. It means you will not have to replace your clothes as quickly, you can more easily sell quality clothing via second-hand channels and less new clothes have to be produced. We need to learn to love and value our clothes again and high-quality clothing ensures that our customers can really enjoy their clothes for many years. We also try to engage with our customers to create this mind shift. In our care guide,  for example, customers can find helpful information about the different fabric types and how to care for them in an environmentally friendly way so that they last longer.
How do you use Otrium as a tool to make sure your clothing is ‘Timeless’?
We want to be mindful about the resources we are using and that’s why we strive to create as little waste as possible. Otrium is an important partner to support this goal. We love that Otrium offers a second chance to our unsold items from past collections. Through Otrium, these items will still find a home with customers who enjoy our clothing for many years to come. Our styles are timeless pieces for a long-lasting wardrobe. They just sometimes need another time and platform to be recognized..
What do customers value most about the brand and products? 
We notice that our customers are no longer interested in the traditional fashion cycle and therefore clearly focus on the importance of “style “, instead of constantly changing trends. Style is something that you must discover and learn individually for yourself - that's what makes it so exciting! 
Style is for everyone and should be all-inclusive. Our pieces can easily be combined to look either cool or classic, meaning that our customers’ personal individual style is also a way of developing our brand message. We want people to see our clothes as a life-partner rather than a quick fling. Our customer isn’t interested in the traditional ‘fashion calendar’ and wants clothes that last longer than just a season. Our product is the obvious answer to this. 
Who inspires you and why?
I love browsing vintage stores or leafing through fashion history books. Fashion was and remains an expression of the times we live in. Every decade provides its individual style. I love being inspired by the past in order to develop a new present — and hopefully a trans-generational future. 
Where do you see your brand in 5 years? What do you want to have achieved by then? 
For us, our 360° concept means a holistic approach. We want to integrate sustainable and responsible business practices at all levels of the company and pursue the goal of further reducing our environmental footprint and achieving maximum positive social impact. We accept this challenge with joy and are proud of every milestone reached that brings us closer to our goal. We still have a long journey ahead, especially regarding transparency and circular fashion. We’re always working on involving our customers more on our journey: re-thinking will always be our guiding principle.. 
What does the future of fashion look like? 
The last years can be seen as a great wake-up call, in terms of sustainability, local production and inclusion. Partners and consumers are gradually becoming more aware of our responsibility for the environment and are demanding changes within the industry. Our customers are already consuming more consciously and asking more targeted questions about product origin and delivery processes. It will be essential for all companies to be more transparent and to develop strategies towards circular production and business models. 
What is one thing you hope others learn from your work? 
I’m convinced that transparency is an integral part of positive change within the fashion industry. To truly understand a brand’s footprint, we need to look at how, where, and above all by whom each product is pieced together. It might sound obvious, but supply chains in fashion (and other sectors) are surprisingly opaque. Transparency isn’t always the easy option, but it’s needed to do business sustainably. That’s why we have just started to measure the environmental footprint of selected styles to make informed sourcing decisions to lower our impact even further.
How do you stay optimistic and persistent in the fight against climate change? 
I think that we are responsible for what and how we consume. The more we look out for one another and share our vision in supporting fair working conditions and environmentally friendly manufacturing processes, the faster we will make a difference in this world. 
Tell us about a recent change you’ve made to be more sustainable day-to-day?  My own behavior of consumption played a big role in starting my own business. I still wear a tweed blazer of my great-grandmother or a vintage trench coat, which I was able to buy years ago at a flea market in New York. I just recently got an oversized denim shirt from my mum, that she was wearing when she was my age. I love that and wear these styles with pride and they never get old.   With IVY OAK we want to offer exactly those go-to pieces that become classics in the wardrobes of our customers and which in the best case are passed onto the next generation.
Do you have a pro-tip extending the life cycle of your wardrobe? 
Buy less and wear what you own more often. It seems boring at first, but you can try new combinations or have a piece altered to change its style. There are many options and every piece in your closet deserves attention. 
Do you have a philosophy you live by? Think differently, act differently.
In the end, it all comes down to us and how we use our individual and combined power to create positive change
What’s a quick change people could make in terms of being more sustainable Choose more wisely and give old clothes a second life. Once you are over that amazing dress or perfect shirt, do not leave it hanging unnoticed in your closet for the next few years or worse throw it away. Look out for local clothing swaps and pass it on for someone new to fall in love with it.

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Otrium continually works towards the  mission that all clothing should be worn. We do this by helping to eliminate unsold inventory and using  technology and data to change the way clothing is created and sold. We are looking to highlight brands in a positive way and help our customers make more informed choices.This week, we chatted to Eric Otten, CEO of cashmere brand So Good To Wear, who believes that ethical fashion should be the rule instead of the exception. So what does sustainability mean to you? “People have always thought we could  take something inexhaustible from our earth, to drive  mass consumption and economic growth. Unfortunately, the reality is the opposite. Sustainability means that we have to give back more to the earth than we take” Tell us more about your brand. “Cashmere without compromises sums it up. We redesign the production process of cashmere with new and restored values. It’s a more conscious and personal process.” What’s your role… and how did you get there? “As CEO of the company, I have to be a farmer for our Nepalese business and at the same time a fashion specialist for our western business. I bring those two worlds together, always with consideration of our vision and goals.” What’s your career background and when did you start working on creating a positive impact? “I have been in the fashion business for almost my whole career. I worked for private label brands and premium brands like Wolford. After five years, I truly realised there are no limitations for the welfare of our planet and so I joined the sustainable and fair trade brand MYoMY. From there, I moved to  So Good To Wear.” What achievement are you most proud of? “Putting the whole chain theory in practice! From our own cashmere goats to our spinnery, natural dying atelier and production in Nepal to our “slow fashion” models in the retail industry. The whole chain is fairtrade,  animal friendly and committed to rebuilding the economy in Nepal.”What are you working on at the moment? “We are expanding our retail network internationally and expanding  our own cashmere goat herd in Nepal.”What is the biggest challenge on your  roadmap of improvements? “The coordination between high demands in the western world and the limitations of the relatively primitive possibilities in Nepal. Some things take more time to realise in Nepal – time we sometimes don’t have.”What’s the best feedback you’ve ever received from customers? “I have never worn a more comfortable piece of clothing than my So Good To Wear sweater – it’s physical and emotional.”What do customers value most about the brand and products? “It’s high “slow” fashion without compromises, made from the finest quality cashmere, fully fairtrade, sustainable and animal friendly”Who inspires you and why? “Stella McCartney – it became a movement of a luxury fashion brand built on sustainability.” What’s the most important aspect you keep in mind when shopping for more sustainable fashion? “I ask: is the brand really concerned about sustainability or is it a form of “greenwashing”?”Do you have a quote you live by? “Without action, we only have words.” What’s a quick change that people could make in terms of being more sustainable? “Actually, that is very easy! Start changing small and easy things in your life because it all helps: take your bike, not your car, don’t let the water run when you brush your teeth, don’t throw away food, put the light out in rooms you're not in, wash only a full machine and use biological soap, throw waste in a bin, not on the street, don’t eat meat every day and many more things that make more difference than you think, in your head and for nature.”
At Otrium, we are committed to a fashion industry where all clothing is worn. Our core mission is to connect excess inventory with its perfect owners, ensuring a win-win situation for brands and consumers alike, while preventing this unsold stock from finding its way into landfill. We are looking to highlight brands in a positive way and help our customers make more informed choices.This month, we meet Tommy Monette, Director of Wholesale at Outerknown.What does being conscious mean to you?I love my job and I love the industry, but fashion is  the second leading cause of waste on the planet. We’re only behind fossil fuels, so it’s really bad, accounting for 10% of all climate change.  The reason I moved jobs to Outerknown was for the brand’s impact story. If you’re sitting at the office at Outerknown, it’s the one thing that everybody is constantly talking about. Everything that we do, every conversation we have in the building is wrapped around impact.For Outerknown, the goal has always been to be fully circular by 2030. We don’t want to put anything new into the marketplace.  We’re about 55% - 60% of the way to circularity at present. We’re not taking current items that we make and trying to retro-fit improved processes. When we develop our methods of working with different factories and different yarn producers, a conscious outlook is built into product development from the very start. Even if you’re using regenerative farming and organic cottons, you’re still putting something new into the market. If you can take something that has already been created and recycle it, then that’s so much better. For us, being conscious is all about people and the planet. Our top three priorities are circularity, water conservancy and the people who make our garments.Tell us more about the people part of your missionAt Outerknown, our statement is ‘for people and planet’. We’ve always tried to live by that and execute our practices that way. People are the first part. It’s who’s touching the garments, how they’re being made, what factory is being used. The people in your supply chain have to be making a living wage, have access to healthcare and decent living conditions, and be treated fairly, otherwise sustainability doesn’t even matter. It has to start with making sure that we’re operating in a safe way. In the past, we have seen factories that tick all of our impact boxes, but then we’ve found out that they subcontract some of their work to territories that have had major worker rights issues. We can’t vet all of those practices, so we’ve pulled out. We don’t want to cut any corners. If we do, everything that we’ve said, everything that we are and everything that we’ve leaned on isn’t true and we don’t want to do that. You’re only as good as your word. Our reputation right now is really, really good, and if we slip even a little bit, that all goes out of the window. We have also exited markets completely where we object to the systems in place from a  political stance, as well as not taking part in events such as tradeshows in geographies where laws around LGBTQ+ rights don’t align with those of Outerknown. It hurts us financially to take that step back, but I mean, we’re selling pants and tops. So if you can’t do that in a way that’s meaningful and is clean on your conscience, what are you doing? This is something that our brand and our leadership is really committed to. If we see something that’s not working for us ethically, we’re out.What about your animal welfare policies?We don’t work with a lot of animal products, but those that we do use tie back into our circularity model. Our wool and cashmere products are fully recycled. We also use recycled down, which is easier to work with than recycled cashmere or wool. Cashmere in particular is really challenging. With down we’re just getting to the point where we can take the garments that we’re recycling and trace them back to the point of origin, so we can tell if the down was responsibly sourced from the very beginning. Down was so awful for so long from an ethical perspective, that it garnered a lot of attention, making tracking its origins a priority ahead of wool and cashmere. With some of our wools and cashmeres we don’t know where the original garment came from, but we then put it into our circularity loop.What are the brand’s next innovations coming up?The biggest push for us at the moment is getting C2, a type of regenerative cotton, off the ground. We grow it at our farms just north of Los Angeles. The fabric produced is a little thinner like a slub, and it’s high in recycled content. We’re testing that and putting it in the market for Spring Summer 23. When you’re growing cotton in huge swathes, you move fields and chew up a lot of ground. With C2, we use the same space over and over again, with less water. The yield is less, but it’s just a better way of farming.Explain the challenges with cotton recyclingWe’re continuously iterating to increase the proportion of recycled cotton in our products. When we started it was 10% but we’re now up to 40 - 50%, with two pairs of jeans and a jacket that are 100% recycled cotton. Doing something like a t-shirt is a lot harder because the threads and the composition is flimsier. Where we can’t use recycled cotton, we use our C2 cotton. No brand is using 100% recycled cotton in their products yet. It’s so tough. There are a lot of people working on this matter industry-wide and although it’s not been solved yet, cotton recycling techniques are improving and we’re getting closer.Tell us more about your fully recycled garmentsWe’ve created a jacket called a Mono Puffer where the whole item comes from one garment - it’s fully recycled, and recyclable, right down to the zippers. It contains recycled fill rather than virgin down and the way that it’s built means that it can easily be turned into something else. This still doesn’t remove the issue around microplastics, which are an inherent problem with that kind of piece.How are you addressing concerns around microshedding?Recycled nylons and plastics are super tough to work with. We don’t even want to break the threads down - we want to take entire panels to recycle things into new garments. We’ve put our outerwear part of the business on hold until we can find a supplier that really addresses that. So we don’t have a lot of outerwear right now, which is really hurting our European teams, and especially Canada. We do have a fabric that doesn’t shed though. It’s an Italian material called ECONYL and is made from recycled fishing nets. It has a four-way stretch, and we use it for some of our swimming trunks, as well as a lot of our activewear. You can make it into jackets if you use a heavier weight of it too. It’s a really special fabric. Can you tell us about one of your initiatives around ocean and water conservancy?Ocean conservancy and water conservancy are really, really big for us. We just launched a partnership with a German company called GOT BAGs. They have a really cool vertical supply chain where they’re making bags out of only ocean plastic. They have a fleet of 2,500 fishermen in Polynesia, Thailand, and the South Pacific. When they throw their nets out, they pull in plastic, which they previously would have burnt. GOT buys the plastic from them, creating an additional income stream for these people. They turn this plastic into pellets, the pellets into fabric and the fabric into waterproof bags. They own the whole supply chain and are continuously bringing more people into the programme.How else does Outerknown work to conserve water and the oceans?Our goal as a brand is to be net positive with water consumption and this extends beyond individual initiatives into every facet of our brand both in production terms but also down to how much water we use at our office and through the tons of beach clean ups we do. Manufacturing-wise, we use a lot of waterless dyes, and consistently monitor the kinds of factories we’re using for our fabrics. We reduce how many washes our denim goes through and are using on average 130 gallons of water to make a pair of jeans. Industry standard is around 280. We’re almost net positive with water consumption as a brand.Can you tell us more about your pre-loved section Outerworn?Outerworn is a really big initiative of ours and this goes back to the circularity of our brand. We would rather, and this goes against everything any brand has done, that people shop that section of our site than buy the new items. If you have any Outerknown gear, you can just login and post it on there. The transaction is similar to eBay. We take a commission, but the product goes from you to another consumer. We want that to become a major part of our business model.What are your hopes for impact within the fashion industry in the next five to ten years?Having fast fashion take a hike would be great. It’s really easy to fall into a trap where you can just pump things out and bring so much stuff into the marketplace that in six months is going to be in a landfill. I would say, the majority of the fashion industry falls into that sector. If you look at how clothing was made 200 years ago, people had one of each thing and that was it. We’ve reached the point now where you can scroll through Instagram and buy a whole new closet, and a lot of people aren’t recycling those garments. A lot of them can’t be recycled. It’s really disheartening. I don’t know if we’ll see a huge swing towards circularity, but anything helps. I’d like to see people really start to lean into circularity and commit to shrinking their closets.What points make you hopeful for the fashion industry?If you look at big brands like Nike or Asics, there’s a lot of focus on recycling. For example, Nike has a shoe with a recycled sole, and Asics has a whole recycled shoe. Buying sustainable pieces is still expensive and not everybody can afford that. Impact and being conscious needs to be an inclusive conversation where lower income families are able to purchase in this way. You need the buy-in of big brands to make the technologies scalable and bring the costs down for everyone. Outerknown is small. We don’t move the needle, but for example, when we first started, we did a three-year collaboration with Levis, because they’re big enough to affect change. We’ll continue to do different collabs with bigger brands. We’re going to have a shoe out with Asics the year after next to go with our active collection. Having those bigger brands starting to take part in impact initiatives and collaborate with smaller brands inspires real optimism.

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